Not ideal but I plan on painting the doors anyway.Īnd yes, I do have a preference for methods that involve 10 minutes of prep work and 10 seconds of actual cutting. Worked pretty well but running over the door face 100 times with the saw left stains. Nails didn't get in the way because they were already driven deep. I have a nice fine-toothed blade on the saw so I saw no tear-out. Did it by creeping up on the right guide position with multiple cuts.
#Plywood on an xstand full
At that point I decided that fortune favors the bold and trimmed the full edge of the door, plywood faces, framing, and all, with my circular saw at 3 degrees. But then sanding was taking a very long time and I was afraid I would round off the door edge in the process so I trimmed it closer and noticed that the edge of the door was bowed in. I have a clamping cutting guide so I used that. I initially trimmed the plywood with my circular saw within a 16th of the desired edge with the intention of sanding it down flush. The accepted answer most closely matches what I actually ended up doing. I up-voded all the answers because they all seem like sound advice to me. In retrospect, I should have cut all the pieces square, done dowel joints or something similar so there are no nails in the way, put on the plywood skin, then trimmed the edges at the proper angle with a circular saw. I can trim the plywood with a router on the short ends, but what is the best way to trim it to the angled edges? The difficulty is that the longer edges of the frame are cut at a 3 degree angle so that the door will not snag on the jamb. The plan was to glue oversized pieces and then trim them to the frame.
I have a frame that is glued and nailed together that is 1 inch thick shown here:ġ/4" birch plywood will be glued to both sides of this.
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